![]() While you can buy several different profiles or even grind your stock plate to the desired shape, a better option would be to install a Dynomite Diesel Adjustable Fuel Plate. If you’re rocking the more popular P-Pump version of the 12-valve, the power is controlled by the shape of a flat piece of metal called the fuel plate. With a VE Pump, its as simple as replacing these two small components to gain an extra 40 horsepower. or torque, and the best part is it installs in about 2 to 3 hours and costs only $164. On a VE pump, this is accomplished with a BD Fuel Pin & Governor Spring Kit which has everything you need under one part number, and adds 40 horsepower and 90lb.ft. Regardless of which style of pump you have, it needs two basic changes at first: 1) the governor RPM needs to be raised to allow the engine to spin faster, and 2) the fuel rate needs to be modified to allow more diesel into the engine. There will be two separate injection pumps we’re talking about today, the earlier VE rotary style which was used between ’89 and ’93, and the later P7100 which was used from ’94 to ’98, and both are very easy to modify to deliver more fuel. Remember: cold and dense air is always the goal. ![]() On the opposite end of the turbo we need to let more air into the compressor housing, so an intake from S&B can be thrown on which moves almost 40% more air than stock, plus the filter is isolated from engine bay heat so it’s truly a “cold air” intake. It will connect to the factory turbo and hangers for an easy install, and even if you opt for the muffler and stainless tip, it still comes out to less than $375. If you don’t want to spend a ton of money, then an MBRP aluminized turbo back single exhaust will get the job done and leave some change in your pocket for future mods. Right off the bat, a free-flowing 4” exhaust will allow more airflow out of the engine and give it a tougher sounding exhaust note. You need to push more air and fuel into the engine to add the power and then strengthen a few areas to contain the extra heat and pressure which you create. To add performance to any diesel, the steps are the same regardless of how old or new it is. While that’s all great news, it does take a few carefully planned steps to reach a higher horsepower goal. The trucks they’re installed in are very inexpensive to buy compared to their modern counterparts, performance parts are cheap, and the 2nd gen Rams are pretty light which makes them a great entry level racing platform. If you show up at a diesel event today, you’re guaranteed to find at least a couple of old 12-valves still spooling their turbos. When it comes to adding power, the stock internals are way overbuilt for how much power they came with, and it’s not uncommon to make 700 horsepower or more on the stock pistons, rods, and crank. If you were able to find a bone stock truck and put it on a chassis dyno today, it would put down somewhere around 150hp to the rear wheels. The 100% mechanical design requires no electronic intervention to run other than a starter motor, and the design is so well sorted out they will run forever with nothing more than basic maintenance, and they are very simple to work on. Low power numbers aside, the 12-valve is a very solid engine. While that’s pretty dismal by today’s standards considering the 2019 HO Cummins is rated at 1,000lb.ft., back in the mid 90’s, that was a very competitive rating. ![]() When they left the factory, the 6BT had a horsepower rating somewhere between 160 and 215 horsepower, and the torque figures came in between 400 and 440 lb.ft. That distinction goes to a mechanical marvel of the mid 90s known as the 6BT Cummins. Common rails have been popular for some time now, but they’re far from the original high-performance diesel powerplant. ![]() ![]() High performance diesel trucks are more popular than ever, and with advances in turbochargers, tuning, and high-pressure injection, it’s possible to have a fuel efficient high-powered daily driver that can still tow and blast down the quarter mile. ![]()
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